steve alan Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 (edited) just done a search for front struts /front struts removal came up blank , cannot belive that there is no topics on this problemsomebody want to point me in right direction please mine make a noise when turning (recon its the bearing) so replacing both sides complete setup, looks a bugger of a job getting the top nut off as rusted up, bought a small air grinder/cutter thought it woud fit in to cut nut off ,no chance of it fitting, so ant help on a good (and easy) if poss way of removal welcomedsteve Edited January 22, 2013 by steve alan Quote
Shabazmo Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 I used a blow torch to help undo the top nut. Hollow sockets are handy like the Draper Vortex 30mm drive can be used with a allen socket and wrench. I have done the job twice and after the second time I fitted youhurt plastic lids over the struts to stop watter getting in. Its dry as a bone 2 years on. Quote
sparky Paul Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 (edited) Front strut removal has been discussed a number of times. The search tool can be a pain to use, but searching for "struts" or "front suspension" should bring up some useful threads. When searching from the box at the top of the page, make sure the grey box says 'Forums' and not 'This topic'. Edited January 22, 2013 by sparky Paul Quote
xavier Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 There's a haynes manual available for the galaxy which shows the procedure (apologies if you were already aware of this). In the end I got a garage to do mine rather than DIY, given the hassle they had I'm glad I did. Quote
steve alan Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Posted January 23, 2013 yes thanks to all who replied, did a google search and it came up with the results quicker than the search on here,problem is they dont go into much depth on how to!some say you can get out with the rubber bush intact ,but how?some say you can cut (with grinder) between rubber bushes?there seems to be loads of i did it this way, but very little on how it was done,what you have to do etcso I was thinking of clamping the springs, so i could cut (grinder) through the shock thus allowing me to pull out the rubbers and rusted nut etc from the top? but would this work or is there something i am missing that would not allow this to be done?thanks in advanceps think i might take pics at all stages and post as a how to if all goes ok ,(that's if there is a how to section? and members are allowed to do that?)steve Quote
gregers Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 steve if you get the chance then plz do take pics and a how to then i will link it for nik to add to the faqs. just for info if you havent found the faqs yet they are in the technical section of the forum. Quote
viperclive Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 Hi Steve, I did both of mine a few months ago, I soaked the top nuts with wd40 for days, also heated the nuts up with a blow lamp a few times and then again with wd40, I used a swan neck ring spanner, good Allen key with extension tube to get the leverage and it worked, if you want an in depth explanation of the rest then just ask. Good luck. Quote
sambulance Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 If you have an air grinder try cutting the holding cups instead of the nuts. This way you can remove the complete struts and finish the job off the car.The cups are about a tenner from the dealer. Use a small cutting disc ( be careful of the strut tower) make a cut in the cup while the car is on the ground. This way the holding cups sit away from the strut tower. Use a socket to turn the nut which will turn the cup and make another cut. Follow on round and with enough cuts made use a set of grips to bend the slits up. Destroy the cup enough to fit through the tower and hay-presto the shock should fall.Good luck Quote
steve alan Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Posted January 24, 2013 thanks for all the advice will take it all into consideration just waitin on some better weather before starting the job, and as going to replace all ,will prob destroy the tops if it makes life easyi will try and get a step by step photo montarge of what i did and how i did it and as the mod said he will try and get it up on here thanks to the members for there imput wish me luck as not a youngster at 62,(my son was going to help but has now cried off) but like to get the jobs done without breaking the bank and as the struts & springs for both sides plus the other little bit only cost about £70 it's worth sorting myselfother than a couple of hundred quid (maybe more?) to a garage for the worknot gonna be done anytine soon as working outside (in the open) so want a bit of good weather firstthankssteve Quote
sparky Paul Posted January 24, 2013 Report Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) The problem with the top nuts is that theres usually so much rust up there, the hex in the end of the strut has had it, and because the nuts are oval locknuts, they rust up solid. The quickest way, if you have access to gas welding/burning bottles, is to get the nuts red and grip the shocker shafts from underneath. If you are replacing the shockers, it doesn't matter if you mark them up. My top mounts were so rotten, I just joined the holes and blew them through with a small torch. Cutting the lip from the top cups is another good option, as sambulance suggests above. The inner part of the cup will then drop through the turret. It might take a little longer, but is relatively straightforward. I removed the shocker from the hub, leaving the hub on the car, but it turned out to be very difficult. If I had to do one again, I would drop the complete hub assembly with the shocker, and split on the bench, rather than trying to remove the shocker from the hub on the car. Bear in mind that if you split the balljoint and take the hub off, you will need a new driveshaft bolt on reassembly. Another thing to watch out for when splitting the shocker from the hub carrier is the pinch bolt. The bolt corrodes in the gap, making it very prone to shearing, as a few members have found on here. I got mine out in one piece by heating the casting up. Good Luck! Edited January 24, 2013 by sparky Paul Quote
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